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: STRUCTURAL CONSTRUCTION WORKS
LEVEL III
Based on October 2023 Version - II Curriculum
Module Title: Assemble and Install Prefabricated Stairs and Furnishing Products
Module code: EIS SCW3 M10 1023
Nominal duration: 60 Hours
Prepared by: Ministry of Labor and Skill
October 2023
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Table of Contents
TOC \o "1-3" \h \z \u HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305124" Acknowledgment PAGEREF _Toc148305124 \h 4
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305125" Acronyms PAGEREF _Toc148305125 \h 5
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305126" Introduction to the module PAGEREF _Toc148305126 \h 6
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305127" Unit One: Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair PAGEREF _Toc148305127 \h 8
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305128" 1.1. Introduction to prefabricated Stairs PAGEREF _Toc148305128 \h 9
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305129" 1.2. Work instruction PAGEREF _Toc148305129 \h 19
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305130" 1.3. Safety & Sign Requirements PAGEREF _Toc148305130 \h 19
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305131" 1.4. Tools, Equipment and Materials selection PAGEREF _Toc148305131 \h 21
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305132" 1.5. Calculating material quantity PAGEREF _Toc148305132 \h 23
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305133" 1.6. Environmental protection PAGEREF _Toc148305133 \h 30
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305134" Self-Check 1. 1 PAGEREF _Toc148305134 \h 31
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305135" Unit Two: Assembling and erecting stairs PAGEREF _Toc148305135 \h 32
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305136" 2.1. Exit and ground finish levels determination PAGEREF _Toc148305136 \h 33
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305137" 2.2. Calculating Rise and Going of stairs PAGEREF _Toc148305137 \h 34
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305138" 2.3. Setting out and placing Newel posts and footings PAGEREF _Toc148305138 \h 41
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305139" 2.4. Cutting and housing stringers PAGEREF _Toc148305139 \h 43
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305140" Self-Check 2.1. PAGEREF _Toc148305140 \h 49
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305141" Operation Sheet 2.1 PAGEREF _Toc148305141 \h 50
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305142" Operation Sheet 2.2 PAGEREF _Toc148305142 \h 52
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305143" LAP Test -2 PAGEREF _Toc148305143 \h 54
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305144" Unit Three: Fitting handrails, balustrade and finish. PAGEREF _Toc148305144 \h 55
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305145" 3.1. Marking and cutting material handrails and balusters PAGEREF _Toc148305145 \h 56
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305146" 3.2. Fitting and fixing handrails and balusters PAGEREF _Toc148305146 \h 58
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305147" 3.3. Installing non-slip strips treads PAGEREF _Toc148305147 \h 66
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305148" 3.3. Cleaning up and Waste management PAGEREF _Toc148305148 \h 70
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305149" Self-Check 3.1. PAGEREF _Toc148305149 \h 73
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305150" Operation Sheet 3.1 PAGEREF _Toc148305150 \h 74
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305151" Operation Sheet 3.2 PAGEREF _Toc148305151 \h 76
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305152" LAP Test -3. PAGEREF _Toc148305152 \h 78
HYPERLINK \l "_Toc148305153" Reference PAGEREF _Toc148305153 \h 79
Acknowledgment
Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many representatives of TVT instructors, respective of MoLS experts and regional labor and skill bureaus who donated their time and professional experience to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM) for structural construction work level III.
Acronyms
EIS Economic infrastructure
SCW Structural Construction Works
LAP Learning Activities Performance
NCC National Construction Code
FRP Fiber Reinforced Plastic
GRP Glass--bre Reinforced Plastic
ISO 90 International organization for standard
BS British Standard
Introduction to the module
In construction work, Assembling and Installing Prefabricated Stairs and Furnishing Products is essential for provides access from one floor to another in a building having more than one story. This module refers to the process of assembling and fitting pre-made stair components into a building or structure. Prefabricated stairs are manufactured off-site and delivered to the construction site as ready-to-install units. This method of installation offers several advantages, including time and cost savings, as the stairs are already fabricated and can be quickly installed without the need for extensive on-site construction. The process typically involves measuring and preparing the space where the stairs will be installed, positioning and securing the prefabricated stair units, and connecting them to the surrounding structure.
This module covers the units:
Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair
Assembling and erecting stairs
Fitting handrails, balustrade and finish
Learning Objective of the Module
Identify assembling and installing prefabricated stair requirement
Assemble and erect stairs
Fit handrails, balustrade and finish
Module Instruction
For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
1. Read the information written in each unit
2. Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit
3. Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
4. Do the LAP test giver at the end of each unit and
5. Read the identified reference book
Unit One: Requirements for Assembling and Installing prefabricated stair
This unit is developed to provide trainees the necessary information regarding the following content coverage and topics:
Introduction to prefabricated Stairs
Work instruction
Safety & Sign Requirements
Tools, Equipment and Materials selection
Calculating material quantity
Environmental protection
This unit will also assist trainees to attain the learning outcomes stated below. Specifically, upon
Completion of this learning guide, the trainees will be able to:
Introduce to Stairs
Obtain ,conform work instruction
Follow safety
Identify and implement Sign/barricade
Select tools and equipment
Calculate material quantity
Identify, obtain and prepare Materials
Identify environmental protection
Introduction to prefabricated Stairs
Stairs
A series of steps which provides access from one floor to another is called a stair, and the part of the building accommodating 'the stair is known as stair case.
A stair may be constructed with steps either rising continuously or with a break in the form of landing in between.
All the steps should be so designed and constructed that up and down movements from one floor to another can be made with ease, comfort, quickness and safety. The stairs may be consisting of any suitable material such us timber, bricks, stone, steel, reinforced cement concrete etc.
The provision of a stair in a building is essential for the move of inmates from one floor to another floor or to the roof of that building.
Now a day in most modern residential and public buildings of multi-story nature, a lift system is provided for convenience and quick movements of the users from one floor to the other.
Various materials such as bricks, stones, timber, steel, plain concrete, etc. are used for the construction of the stairs. Sometimes, marble, mosaic or checkered finish is provided. The selection of suitable materials for the stair construction is governed by the fund available, expected life of the building, availability of materials, external appearance and the expected fire resisting qualities.
The stairs should be located such that they serve the purpose for which they are provided. It needs careful planning and consideration of all probable factors. In case of fire or any other emergency the stairs are only means of communication. Generally, they are placed near the main entrance in the public buildings such as offices, schools, hospitals, etc. and in the residential buildings, they are provided in the center to provide easy access to all the dwellers and maintain privacy at the same time.
Primary functions of staircase
Provide an access from one floor to another.
Provide a safe means of travel between floors.
Provide an easy mean of travel between floors.
Provide a suitable means of escape in case of fire.
Provide a mean of conveying fittings and furniture between floor levels.
Terminology in stair
Typical sections of a stair with its components are shown in and the common technical terms associated with the design and construction of stairs are discussed below.
Table 1 Name of parts of stair
Handrail The sill generally made out of vertical (rails) and or horizontal elements. Staircase Shaft The enclosed space, limited by the walls confining the staircase Nosing The frontal part of the tread that is excluded from the plane of the riser ;it has a decorative purpose Riser Vertical surface connecting 2 treads
Observation: there can also be stairs with reads and no risers Under stairs The lower part of the flight of stairs that can be seen from the landing or a flight of stairs found on an inferior altitude
Observation: the over stair.Total height Headroom The circulation space between the sheer limits of 2 superimposed flight of stairs or a flight of stairs and a landing ,measured using the normal on the line of walk ,from the nosing of the tread to the plane generated by the backside of the flight of stairs or the landings beams Total length The circulation space between the wall and the railing Line of walk The Graphic indicator of the way to the stairs; in case of circular or balanced staircases, its considered to be 50 cm from the handrail towards the smaller arch of the curve, for flight of stairs smaller than 1m; in axes of flights of stairs longer than 1.0 m its considered to be at 60 cm Tread edge The intersection between the horizontal plane and the vertical one of the tread Rail Vertical construction element (continuous or with gaps) that offers protection to the people going up and down or pausing on the (flight of) stairs. Landing Horizontal construction element built for people to rest on when going up/down stairs Flight of stairs Flight of stairs Circulation construction element with a slope, with /without treads Staircase Construction subcomponent that serves pedestrian circulation in between more floors, consisting in flights of stairs and eventually a landing Outer, open staircase A staircase situated outside the building, standing alone (independent) or adjacent to the building with a maximum of 3 sides Inside/Inner, open A staircase situated inside the building, in lobbies, hallways, Inside, closed staircase A staircase situated inside the building specific to isolation and fire safety codes Staircase with multiple landings A staircase that has multiple straight flights of stairs and the relative orientation of some over others occurs at particular angles
(Most common at 180 or 90) Monumental staircase A staircase thats designed with the purpose of achieving a specific architectural impression and built to ensure (only if necessary) safety evacuation Main staircase A staircase that can ensure functional circulation throughout the building Curved/Helical Staircase A staircase that has curved flight of stairs either continuous or interrupted by landings Straight flights staircase Straight flights staircase a staircase that has straight flight of stairs either continuous or interrupted by landings Straight staircase A staircase that has straight flight of stairs hat are positioned one after another, in the same direction Secondary staircase A staircase for secondary circulation, passing through all floors or at least parts of them, ensuring even safety evacuation if built to code Abrupt staircase A staircase that has treads with the width between 22.6 and 30 Balanced or dancing staircase A staircase with one or more straight flight of stairs in which some parts of the flights are curved (the area of direction changing) or a staircase posed of a strait flight of stairs and a curved one, with or without landing. Staircase with high risers A staircase with risers of height between 17.6 and 22.5cm Staircase with low risers A staircase with risers of height lowers than 16.5cm Inside, closed staircase A staircase situated inside the building specific to isolation and fire safety codes Staircase with regular risers A staircase with risers of height between 16.6 and 17.5 Tread The horizontal surface, with a relatively low width, situated vertically on equal distance between other treads Balanced treads Treads that go follow a curved path, with tread edges that converge to centers of different radius. In a drawing plan, each tread has a different shape. The eye of the staircase The free space bound by the inner parts of flight of stairs Strings or StringerThe lateral or central beam going along the flight or stairs bearing all its weight.
Fig: 1.1. Parts of stair
Types of Stairs
1. Straight flight/straight run
2. Quarter turn/L-shaped
3. Half turn (dog leg)/180 return
4. Spiral (helical) & elliptical
5. Winder
1. Straight flight/straight run It rises from the floor to floor in one direction with or without a n i n t e r m e d i a t e l a n d i n g . I t i s a l s o k n o w n a s c o t t a g e s t a i r . I t i s c o m m o n l y u s e d i n t h e t r a d i t i o n a l t w o - u p t w o - d o w n c o t t a g e . T h e m o s t e c o n o m i c a l u s e o f t h e s t r a i g h t f l i g h t i s t o l o c a t e t h e s t a i r i n t h e c e n t e r o f t h e p l a n r u n n i n g f o r f r o n t t o b a c k .
F i g . 1 . 2 . S t r a i g h t f l i g h t / s t r a i g h t r u n s
2 . Q u a r t e r t u r n / L - s h a p e d I t r i s e s t o a l a n d i n g b e t w e e n t w o f l o o r s , t u r n s t h r o u g h 9 0 , t h e n r i s e s t o t h e f l o o r a b o v e . I t i s g o o d i n c o m p a c t p l a n n i n g . T h e q u a r t e r t u r n s o m e t i m e w i l l b e r e p l a c e d w i t h w i n d e r s f o r e c o n o m i c u s e o f s p a c e .
F i g . 1 . 3 . Q u a r t e r t u r n / L - s h a p e d
3 . H a l f t u r n ( d o g l e g ) / 1 8 0 r e t u r n I t r i s e s t o a l a n d i n g b e t w e e n f l o o r s , t u r n s t h r o u g h 1 8 0 , t h e n r i s e s p a r a l l e l t o t h e l o w e r f l i g h t t o t h e f l o o r a b o v e . I t i s s a i d t o b e t h e m o s t c o m m o n a r r a n g e m e n t of stairs. The main advantage of this type is, it can be constructed within the confined vertical stair well.
Fig.1.4. Half turn (dog leg)/180 return
4. Spiral (helical) & Elliptical - It is constructed as either a spiral (helical) stair or an ellipse stair. It is the most economical way to save space, but difficult to use due to the sharp turns. Very dangerous for the very young and elderly. Usually use where the space is very limited for access to an intermediate floor of one room.
Fig.1.5. Spiral (Helical) and Elliptical
5. Winder Stairs It is a triangular treads or tapered treads that wind around quarter of half turn in place of landings. It is adopted to reduce the number of steps required in the rest of the stair and to economize in space. It is usually used in domestic stairs. It can be hazardous as they only offer little foothold at the interior corner. It is not recommended for public buildings in the means of escape stairs especially for the very young and elders.
Fig.1.6. Winder Stairs
Prefabricated timber stairs
Prefabricated timber stairs are pre-made stair systems that are manufactured off-site using timber materials. These stairs are built in a controlled environment, ensuring high quality and consistency.
Prefabricated timber stairs come in various designs, styles, and configurations to suit specific building requirements. They can be straight, spiral, or curved, with options for landings and handrails. The timber materials used can vary, including hardwoods such as oak or maple, or engineered timber products.
The main advantages of prefabricated timber stairs include faster installation times, reduced labor costs, consistent quality, and the natural beauty and warmth of timber. Timber stairs can add a touch of elegance and sophistication to any space, making them a popular choice in residential and commercial buildings.
These stairs are often used in both interior and exterior applications, providing safe and functional access between different levels while enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the space.
Prefabricated timber stairs are pre-made stair systems that are manufactured off-site using timber materials. These stairs are built in a controlled environment, ensuring high quality and consistency.
Prefabricated timber stairs come in various designs, styles, and configurations to suit specific building requirements. They can be straight, spiral, or curved, with options for landings and handrails. The timber materials used can vary, including hardwoods such as oak or maple, or engineered timber products.
The main advantages of prefabricated timber stairs include faster installation times, reduced labor costs, consistent quality, and the natural beauty and warmth of timber. Timber stairs can add a touch of elegance and sophistication to any space, making them a popular choice in residential and commercial buildings.
These stairs are often used in both interior and exterior applications, providing safe and functional access between different levels while enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the space.
Installing prefabricated timber stairs involves several steps:
Site preparation: The area where the stairs will be installed needs to be cleared of any obstacles or debris. The dimensions and layout of the stairs should be marked out on the floor or ground.
Assembly: The prefabricated timber stairs are delivered to the site in pre-made sections or modules. These sections are then assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions. This may involve connecting the treads, risers, and stringers together using screws, bolts, or other fasteners.
Leveling and alignment: Once the stairs are assembled, they need to be leveled and aligned properly. This ensures that the stairs are stable and safe to use. Shims or adjustable feet may be used to achieve the correct level and alignment.
Attachment: The stairs are then attached to the building structure using brackets, anchors, or other appropriate fixings. This provides additional stability and support.
Finishing touches: The stairs may require some finishing touches, such as sanding, staining, or painting, depending on the desired aesthetic. Handrails, balusters, and other accessories can also be added at this stage.
Testing and inspection: Before the stairs are put into regular use, they should be thoroughly tested and inspected to ensure they meet safety standards. This includes checking for any loose or unstable components and verifying that all connections are secure.
Overall, installing prefabricated timber stairs is a relatively straightforward process that can be completed by experienced professionals or skilled DIY enthusiasts. However, it is important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and any applicable building codes to ensure a safe and successful installation.
Work instruction
Work instructions are the plan that includes requirements and operational details of relevant information to prepare for assembling and Installing Prefabricated Stairs activities. It may include plans, specifications, quality controlling, working procedures legislation including equal gender employment opportunity and disability inclusive.
Installing prefabricated stairs refers to the process of assembling and fitting pre-made stair components into a building or structure. Prefabricated stairs are manufactured off-site and delivered to the construction site as ready-to-install units. This method of installation offers several advantages, including time and cost savings, as the stairs are already fabricated and can be quickly installed without the need for extensive on-site construction. The process typically involves measuring and preparing the space where the stairs will be installed, positioning and securing the prefabricated stair units, and connecting them to the surrounding structure.
Safety & Sign Requirements
Safety
Safety is a precaution to avoid accident, right way of doing to avoid accident , follows direction to prevent wastage of time, energy & money
To help make your project a safe work site, it is recommended that you:
1. Wear eye protection at all times.
2. Wear hearing protection when using power tools.
3. Use utility gloves when removing old lumber and when handling material to be installed.
Staircase safety
Safety on the stairs has many contributing factors that impact on the design. Dimensional layout, material specification, contrasting surface finishes and even seemingly small details such as handrail profile (and hence grasp ability) will play an enormous role in helping the user move up and down the staircase safely.
Staircases are often used as the critical means of escape in the event of a fire or can even form part of the fire compartmentation of a building. Consideration of the user and their specific needs should be made at initial design and concept stage. Understanding the user classification of the staircase and the building classification will help to ensure that the design accounts for all of these factors.
Is the staircase within a public or private building?
Is the staircase fire protected or contributing to the fire compartmentation of the building?
Is the staircase used for fire means of escape?
What specialist needs might the user have?
Is the staircase used by young children or the elderly or those with other specific needs?
Safety in Working Area
Working place or area is whole building/construction/ site including tools, equipment, machines, storerooms, etc. Within the general working place there is a personal working area /space/, where someone is building up a wall or other related activities. Working space is essentially required for all construction workers, to accommodate materials and equipment for the process; therefore, it is a crucial and necessary to keep them all in proper manner.
A neat and tidy site safes time, eases the work and avoids accidents. If things like tools, battens, boards, stones, cables, steel bars etc. are not used or kept improperly they are obstacles for the construction process and can be the cause for accident.
Signage
Signage refers to any kind of visual graphics or displays that are used to convey information or communicate a message. It includes signs, symbols, logos, banners, posters, and other visual elements that are designed to be easily understood and recognized by viewers. Signage is commonly used for advertising, way finding, and providing information in public spaces, such as streets, buildings, airports, malls, and hospitals. It can be made of various materials, including metal, plastic, wood, glass, or fabric, and can be illuminated or non-illuminated depending on the purpose and location. Signage plays a crucial role in guiding and informing people, promoting businesses and events, and enhancing the overall visual appeal of a space.
This section provides information on the signs that you can encounter on the work site. Most signs are self-explanatory, but if you encounter a sign where the meaning is not clear, seek advice before you commence work in the area covered by the sign.
Needs of Safety Signage
Safety signs draw your attention to objects and situations affecting your health and safety. Safety signs are placed in strategic locations as close as possible to hazardous areas.
If they become damaged or unreadable, please report this to your supervisor so that the sign/s can be replaced. If a sign displays a distinct safety message, it will carry the same authority as a direct instruction from your Supervisor
Tools, Equipment and Materials selection
Tools and Equipment
Carpenters should be adequately equipped with a reasonable quantity and variety of tools and equipment for work to be done efficiently. It is necessary for carpenters to be, not only familiar with the names of the tools and equipment but, able to identify and select the right tools and equipment for the job in hand and use it safely and correctly. To make it easier to understand the correct applications of the various tools and equipment, they are grouped in the following classes.
Tools
These tools are used for measuring, marking out, setting out and testing of a job at various stages, striking two objects together, forcing other materials into a piece of work and making holes. Among those, the common tools are;
Table 1.1.List of Tools and Equipment
Measuring & Laying out ToolsPercussion toolsImpelling toolsBoring toolsRulerClaw hammerscrew driversDrill bitsStraight edgeWooden malletNail punchGimletMarking knifePlastic malletBraceBradawlSliding bevelCalipersTry-squareMiter square
Equipment
Portable power tools
They are light in weight, easily carried, and are held in the hands during operation. The use of portable power tools in the workshop and on site is ever-increasing. The main advantages of these tools are work faster with increased productivity, less cutting and maintenance cost. It includes;
Portable electric saw
Portable electric plane
Portable power drill
Portable sander
Portable power router installing prefabricated stairs refers to the process of assembling and fitting pre-made stair components into a building or structure. Prefabricated stairs are manufactured off-site and delivered to the construction site as ready-to-install units. This method of installation offers several advantages, including time and cost savings, as the stairs are already fabricated and can be quickly installed without the need for extensive on-site construction. The process typically involves measuring and preparing the space where the stairs will be installed, positioning and securing the prefabricated stair units, and connecting them to the surrounding structure.
Material selection
The natural beauty of timber as a material for stair building provides limitless possibilities in regard to color, grain pattern, profile and overall surface finish.
Using contrasting yet complementary timbers and design features can make a unique and jaw dropping feature of the staircase within the overall building environment.
Liaising with a competent staircase manufacturer at the earliest stages of building design will enable you to experience the full range of timbers and surface finishes available.
The staircase manufacturer will take this specification and compose it into the overall design of the staircase.
Common points for consideration:
What materials are available and are they responsibly sourced?
Does the material need to be supplied with any certification or documentation? (e.g.environmental product data, fire, responsible sourcing, strength grade)
Does the material selection have bearing on the structural capacity of the staircase?
A combination of different materials and finishes?
Does the chosen material complement the interior of the building?
What are the surrounding chosen floor and wall coverings?
The quality or grade of the timber is important and the particular grade required achieving a good stair.
Calculating material quantity
Dimensional layout of a timber staircase
The following information highlights the main dimensional considerations relating to timber staircase design as detailed in the building regulation guidance. There is different guidance depending on user, building classification of the staircase and location of staircase.
Steepness of stairs Pitch, rise and going
The pitch of the stair is essentially the angle of the stair. The pitch line is measured at the nosing edge as shown in the diagram below.
The total rise of the stair is from finished floor level to finished floor level. The rise of an individual step is measured between upper surfaces of consecutive treads. The going is measured between consecutive nosing.
Fig: 1.7.P i t c h l i n e o f t h e s t a i r
T h e n o r m a l r e l a t i o n s h i p b e t w e e n t h e d i m e n s i o n s o f r i s e ( R ) a n d g o i n g ( G ) i s : 5 5 0 m m d" ( 2 R + G ) d" 7 0 0 m m . H o w e v e r , t h e r e a r e l i m i t a t i o n s s e t b y t h e d i f f e r e n t b u i l d i n g r e g u l a t i o n g u i d a n c e d o c u m e n t s .
M e a s u r i n g e f f e c t i v e c l e a r w i d t h
T h e term effective clear width describes the usable space between handrails and the wall or guarding.
The diagram below illustrates measuring effective width in different staircase configurations.
Fig: 1.8.Effective clear width between walls
Handrails for stairs
Handrail design for common stairs in blocks of flats:
The handrail must be 900 mm above the pitch line on the flight and at a height of 1000 on the landings or stair approach:
Fig: 1.9(a) The handrail distance above the pitch line
Handrail design for buildings other than dwellings the height of the handrail must be between 900 mm and 1100 mm:
Where a stepped change in level within the entrance storey of a dwelling is unavoidable, for example on severely sloping plots, if a flight consists of three or more risers, a suitable continuous handrail is required on each side of the flight and any intermediate landings.
In addition, for buildings other than dwellings and for common access areas in buildings that contains flats and do not have passenger lifts, suitable continuous handrail must be installed on both sides of the stairs and landing.
Fig: 1.20(b) The handrail distance above the pitch line
Wall Handrail
Handrail should be of a visually contrasting material (not highly reflective), of a material that does not have high temperature range and slip resistant. The ends of the handrail extensions should be finished in such a manner that they reduce the risk of clothing being caught.
The wall handrail profile should be either circular or elliptical and mounted on wall brackets, maintaining a suitable distance from the wall.
Fig: 1.21. Wall Handrail
Landings
Stairway width is defined as the Minimum inside clearance width from handrail to handrail or handrail to wall. The width of your stairway must allow room for two people to pass on the stairs, and for bulky furniture to be carried up and down. We recommend at least 42".
A stair landing should be provided at the top and bottom of every flight. A single landing may be common to 2 or more flights, and be level. It should have an effective width of not less than the effective width of the stair flight it serves, and be clear of any door swing or other obstruction.
The minimum length of a stair landing, measured on the center line of travel, should be either 1200 mm or the effective width of the stair, whichever is less.
Fig: 1.22.Landings distance from opening & its width
Headroom for stairs
Headroom is the distance measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing or from the floor surface of the landing or platform to the underside of any overhead obstruction. Most staircases are comfortable to use if they have headroom of 7'4" or more. Headroom should never be less than 6'8".
Fig: 1.23. Stairway headroom
For common stairs, the minimum headroom must be 2000 mm. The key dimensional locations are shown in the diagram below.
Fig:1.24. Minimum distance between headroom & Pitch line
Fig.1.25. Layout of Stair Case Planning
Environmental protection
The environmental conditions will affect the moisture content of timber and wood-based timber stair components, and both factors will then impact on durability. The indicative moisture content values of timber stairs in a heated and unheated internal.
Risk Assessment provides and maintains safety signs where there is a risk to health and safety, eg. Obstacles. Train staff to comprehend safety signs.
Pictorial Symbols pictograms alone are acceptable but supplementary text,
eg. Fire Exit is recommended.
Fire/Emergency Escape Signs conformity to BS 54991:1990.
A green square or rectangular symbol.
Positioning of signs primarily for location of fire exits, fire equipment, alarms, assembly points, etc. Not to be located where they could be obscured.
Marking of Hazardous Areas to identify designated areas for storing dangerous substances: Dangerous Substances (Notification and Marking of Sites) Regulations 1990.
Yellow triangular symbol.
Self-Check 1. 1
Part I: Multiple choices
Instruction: I. Select the correct answer for the give choice. You are provided a minute for each question and each carry 3 Points.
1. A series of steps which provides access from one floor to another is----------
A/ Rail C/ Stair
B/Riser D/ Landing
2. Vertical surface connecting two treads----------------------
A/ Rail C/ Stair
B/Riser D/ Landing
3. Flight of stairs Circulation construction element with a slope, with or without treads
A/ Rail C/ Stair
B/Riser D/ Landing
Part II: True or False Questions
Instruction: Say True or False. You are provided 2 minute for each question and each has 5Points.
Straight flight is rises from the floor to floor in one direction with or without an intermediate landing.
Safety is a precaution to avoid accident, right way of doing to avoid accident.
The total rise of the stair is from finished floor level to finished floor level.
You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers.
Name: _________________________ Date: _______________
Unit Two: Assembling and erecting stairs
This unit is developed to provide trainees the necessary information regarding the following content coverage and topics:
Exit and ground finish levels determination
Calculating Rise and going of stairs
Setting out and placing Newel posts and footings
Cutting and housing stringers
To treads and risers
To newel posts and landings
This unit will also assist trainees to attain the learning outcomes stated below. Specifically, upon
Completion of this learning guide, the trainees will be able to:
Determine Exit and ground finish levels
Calculate Rise and going of stairs
Select Material for treads and riser
Set out and place Newel posts and footings
Stringers Materials
Cut and house stringers
Exit and ground finish levels determination
How to Level Stairs
Stairs consist of notched, diagonal stringers that attach between a landing at the top and the floor at the bottom, and treads atop cut-out sections of the stringers. Treads that aren't level can pose safety concerns as well as convenience issues. To level existing stairs, remove any baseboard or pull back the carpet to access the underside of the stringers at the floor. When installing stairs, level the stringers before installing the treads. With either application, a do-it-yourself enthusiast can do the job in a relatively short time.
For concrete floor
Over time, concrete floors can settle unevenly or become uneven due to cracking and moisture. Whether you want to refinish an uneven basement floor, or replace or add new flooring on top of an existing concrete floor somewhere in your home, you most likely will need to level the concrete floor. With the right preparation, equipment, and self-leveling concrete mix, you will be able to do this job yourself in 1-2 days. Fill any cracks with epoxy. ...
Apply latex bonding compound over all the concrete when the floor is absolutely dry. Mix the self-leveling compound with water, according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pour the self-leveling compound immediately, because it can dry very quickly.
Wooden floor
How to Level a Wood Floor Sub-Floor
Clean everything off the floor
Examine the floor closely for nails or screws that are loose.
Set a long straightedge tool or a straight piece of 2-by-4-inch lumber on the floor.
Put on a dust mask.
Fill low areas with premixed cementations leveling compound applied with a trowel.
When installing a stair it is usual to start from the top and work down. There may need to be some preparation of joints and trimming to size of components, where required, before the components are fixed in position and this should be checked prior to starting the installation. Wall strings, newels and landings will need to be fixed to the supporting structure. Consideration should be given to the type of fixings used to ensure that they provide a suitable level of support and that they are appropriate for the timber, block or other material to which the stair is being fixed. All fixing points should be prepared with clearance holes (through the piece being secured) and pilot holes (into the structure being secured to). Never force a fixing into any material, unless the fixing is intended for that purpose, as this will cause splitting of timber and will weaken the joint. Care when handling should be taken to protect the delicate birds mouth joint.
Calculating Rise and Going of stairs
Designing the staircase depends on many factors: the place in which the staircase is going to be situated (inside or out), the size of hole in the slab and the type of building theyre serving (residential, commercial or industrial)
Usual slopes for the flight of stairs
The relation between the length of the tread (l) and the height of the riser (h).
Observation:
The treads of big slope staircases should be made without risers is that the sole of the foot may have a larger contact area, thus going under the tread above.
Fig.2.1. Flight of Stair
The relation between the length of the tread (l) and the height of the riser (h) defines the slope of the flight of stairs. In his book Architecture course, Jacques-Francois Blonde (1705 1774) introduced a two factors equation that allows a proper design of a staircase: 2h + l = 62 64
Where 62 and 64 are the optimum interval (measured in cm) in which the result of the sum
2h +L must ft in.
For example, for a length L=28 cm that we want to achieve, the right height can be calculated using: The minimum optimal height
2h + 28 = 62
2h = 62 - 28 = 34
h = 34:2 = 17
The maximum optimal height
2h + 28 = 64
2h = 64 - 28 = 36
h = 36:2 = 18
The ideal height of the riser for a 28 cm tread will be between 17 is 18 mother formula is known even today as Blondes formula. Over time, accumulated expertise lead to the development of specific ratios that involve other parameters, according to the use of the stairs, their use or the type of construction method.
For example, for staircases that have very low/high riser, this equation is recommended
3h + l = 80 85
Step Proportions
Size
R i s e r + T r e a d e" 4 0 a n d d" 4 5 c m
2 R i s e r + T r e a d e" 5 8 a n d d" 6 3 c m
R i s e r x T r e a d e" 4 0 0 a n d d" 5 0 0 c m 2
F o r l a r g e b u i l d i n g s r i s e r d" 1 8 c m a n d t r e a d e" 2 7 c m
F o r o r d i n a r y b u i l d i n g s s l i g h t l y g r e a t e r r i s e r a n d l e s s t r e a d i s p e r m i t t e d
L i m i t R i s e > 2 0 a n d T r e a d < 22 cm shall not be used
Stair width 0.8 1.0 m Residential and 1.5 m for Public Buildings
Slope not greater than 400 and not less than 200
Riser and Tread uniform in dimensions
Handrails Public Buildings 90 cm from the floor for horizontal rails and 80 cm for racking hand rails measured vertically from the nosing
Table: 2.1. Rise and Going
RiseGoingMinimum(mm)Maximum(mm)Minimum(mm)Maximum(mm)Private stair150220220300Utility Stair150190250400General access Stair150170250400
Staircase Design calculation Example 1
Now we are going to calculate the required number of Riser and Tread for a Dog legged staircase having
3-metre height
4-metre width
1-metre width of landing slab
Solution
Staircase Dimension Calculation Formula
Number of Riser = Height of Staircase/ Height of one number of Riser
Number of Tread = Length of Stair/One number of Tread
Fig. 2.2. Staircase steps calculation
From the above Diagram,
The staircase has divided into two flights providing a landing slab at mid of the staircase height.
So Number of Riser = Height of Staircase / Height of one Rise
= 1500/150
= 10 Nos
So as per standard, we are providing 300 mm as tread length.
Number of Tread = Length of Stair/One number of Tread
= 3000/300
= 10 Nos
Hence the required number of Riser and Tread is 10 Nos.
Example 2
Straight flight of external stairs with the total rise = 2665 mm. The total going is unrestricted and the proposed treads will be 250 x 38 mm unseasoned hardwood.
Calculate rise:
Divide the rise of the flight by a trial rise of 170 mm (for external stairs the rise is generally about 180 mm and for internal about 175 mm) to obtain the approximate number of rises.
2665170 mm = 15.67. This gives 15 risers at 170 mm and one at 115 mm. (2665 (170 x 15))
Although it is allowable to have a different rise at the bottom of external stairs, this should be avoided where possible, so round off to the nearest whole number = 15.
Rise = (266515) = 177 mm
Note: The result of the above calculation is 177.66 but we can round down up or down to the nearest whole number. If rounded down, the result is that the rise of the flight will be 10 mm less than the total rise of 2665. However, when the stairs are built to this and put in place, the treads will have a slight slope to the front, in this case just less than 1 mm per tread. This is acceptable and for external stairs can assist water to run off the treads.
Calculate going:
The tread width is 250 mm so this can be our going. (Where an overhang on the tread is provided, the going will need to be adjusted accordingly.)
Calculate total going:
There is always one less tread than the number of risers so the going of the flight will be:
250 mm (the tread width) x 14 (15 risers - 1) = 3500 mm.
Check results with BCA requirements:
Rise: 177 mm is within the range of 115 to 190 mm.
Going: 250 mm is within the range of 240 to 355 mm.
Slope relationship: 177 x 2 + 250 (rise multiplied by 2 + the going) = 604 is within the range of
700 to 550 mm.
Fixing Rise and Run onto stringers
To fix wooden risers and treads onto stringers for a staircase, you can follow these steps:
Prepare the stringers: Ensure that the stringers are properly aligned and securely fastened to the structure of the staircase. The stringers are the diagonal supports that run along the sides of the staircase, supporting the steps. Make any necessary repairs or adjustments to the stringers before proceeding.
Measure and cut the risers: Measure the height of each riser, which is the vertical distance between the top of one tread and the bottom of the next tread. Use a measuring tape to measure the height of each riser individually, as they may vary slightly. Mark these measurements on the stringers.
Attach the risers: Apply construction adhesive to the back of each riser. Position the riser against the stringer, ensuring it is aligned vertically with the marked measurements. Use a level to check for plumb. Secure the riser in place with nails or screws, driving them through the riser and into the stringer.
Measure and cut the treads: Measure the width of each step and add a small amount for the nosing, the overhang of the tread. Mark these measurements on the stringers.
Attach the treads: Apply construction adhesive to the top of each stringer and position the tread on top, aligning it with the marked measurements. Make sure the tread is level horizontally using a level. Secure the tread to the stringer with nails or screws, driving them through the tread and into the stringer.
Repeat for the remaining risers and treads: Continue measuring, cutting, and attaching the remaining risers and treads in the same manner until you have completed the staircase.
Finishing touches: Fill any nail or screw holes with wood filler. Sand the surfaces of the risers and treads to smooth out any rough edges. Apply paint, stain, or finish to match your desired aesthetic.
Setting out and placing Newel posts and footings
Installation of newel posts
Newel posts are necessary every time that the handrail changes direction. A newel post is also necessary on balconies where the length of the handrail is 8 feet or more. Local building codes may require newel posts in other locations. Check with your building inspector for more information.
For installation of pin top newel posts determine the height of the newel post by calculating the height of the handrail at the point where t h e n e w e l p o s t i s t o b e i n s t a l l e d .
F o r i n s t a l l a t i o n o f a p o s t t o p o s t s y s t e m c a l c u l a t e t h e c e n t e r p o i n t o f t h e b l o c k o n t h e n e w e l p o s t a n d e n s u r e t h a t i t a l i g n s w i t h t h e c e n t e r o f t h e h a n d r a i l . F o r b a l c o n y h a n d r a i l s t h e m i n i m u m h a n d r a i l h e i g h t i s 3 6 3 s o m e l o c a l c o d e s r e q u i r e 4 2 3 h a n d r a i l h e i g h t
T h e u s e o f a s u r e - t i t e n e w e l f a s t e n e r i s r e c o m m e n d e d f o r i n s t a l l i n g n e w e l p o s t s s i n c e i t i s t h e s t r o n g e s t m e c h a n i c a l f a s t e n e r a v a i l a b l e . W h e n i n s t a l l i n g a n e w e l p o s t i t i s r e c o m m e n d e d t h a t a l e v e l i s c l a m p e d t o t h e s ides of the newel and the newel is installed plumb.
Steps of Newel Posts Installation
Step 1 Construct a baluster line. Balusters and newel posts are all centered along the same baluster line. This is calculated by determining the exact location of all the balusters on the stair tread. The edge of each baluster should be 1.5 from the front edge of the stair tread. The center point of the balusters can be determined by calculating the width of the baluster, dividing by 2, and adding 1.5.
For example the center point of a 1.5 baluster would be 2.25 from the edge of the stair tread (1.5 baluster/2 = .75 + 1.5 edge room = 2.25). The center points of the newel posts lie along the same baluster line.
Fig.2.5. Top view of Newel Posts Installation
Step 2 Determine the length between the starting newel Post and the landing newel Posts.
The height of the handrail measured from the leading edge of every tread must meet the local building code. Account for 1 above the handrail on the top square block of the newel Post.
Step 3 Cut newel Posts to appropriate size.
Step 4 Install the starting newel Post, landing newel Post, and/or half-newel Posts
Fig.2.6 (a) Install the starting newel Post
Fig.2.6.(b) Install the starting newel Post
Cutting and housing stringers
Cutting and housing stringers is a common practice in carpentry and stair construction. Stringers are the structural elements that support the treads and risers of a staircase. "Housing" refers to the process of creating notches or slots in the stringers to receive the treads and risers.
Here's a general overview of how to cut and house stringers for a staircase:
Measure and calculate: Start by determining the total rise (vertical height) and total run (horizontal distance) of the staircase. You'll also need to know the desired tread depth and riser height. Use these measurements to calculate the number of risers and treads needed.
Determine the stringer dimensions: Stringers are typically made from 2x12 or 2x14 lumber. The width of the stringer is usually the same as the width of the treads. The thickness of the stringer depends on the span and the load it needs to support. Consult local building codes or a structural engineer to determine the appropriate size.
Lay out the stringer: Use a framing square, a straightedge, and a pencil to lay out the stringer on the lumber. Start by marking the total rise and total run on the stringer. Then, divide the total rise by the number of risers to determine the height of each riser. Mark these measurements along the stringer, keeping in mind that the top riser is typically shorter to accommodate the thickness of the tread material.
Mark the tread and riser locations: Determine the thickness of the tread material and mark this distance on the stringer at each riser location. This will create the housing or notch for the treads. Similarly, mark the height of each riser on the stringer, creating the housing for the risers. Use a square to ensure that the layout lines are perpendicular to the stringer.
Cut the housing: With the layout lines in place, use a circular saw or a handsaw to make the cuts for the housing. Start by making multiple parallel cuts along the width of the housing area, and then remove the waste material with a chisel or a reciprocating saw. Take care to make clean and accurate cuts to ensure a proper fit for the treads and risers.
Test the fit: Once the housing cuts are complete, test the fit of the treads and risers. They should fit snugly into the housing without any gaps or wobbling. Make any necessary adjustments to the housing cuts as needed.
Install the stringer: With the housing cuts completed and checked for accuracy, you can now install the stringer in its intended location. Secure it to the framing using appropriate fasteners, such as nails or structural screws. Make sure the stringer is level and plumb before proceeding with the installation of the treads and risers.
It's important to note that this is a general overview of the process, and the specific steps may vary depending on the design and requirements of your staircase. It's always a good idea to consult local building codes and regulations, as well as seek the advice of a professional carpenter or contractor when constructing stairs.
Fig:2.7. Housing strings.
Fig:2.8. Housing string practices.
String End Joints
The marking for the appropriate joints at the ends of the strings can now also be completed.
The joint used will depend on the type of stair and the structure to which it is being attached. For
example, for a simple external flight the string is generally notched over the bearer (or landing plate) or tenoned into a newel post at the top and birds mouthed over the bottom tread (see next Figure)
Fig: 2.9. Supporting stringers.
To treads and risers
Risers should be fixed to the edge of the lower tread with adhesive and a mechanical fixing at centers not exceeding 150 mm. Penetration should be not less than 2 times the riser thickness.
The top of each riser should be located into a groove in the underside of the tread with a depth of a third of the tread thickness. This joint should be further supported by angle blocks 75 mm long and 38 mm width on the shorter edges, glued to the riser and tread. The number of blocks will vary according to the width of the stair.
Strings should be housed to receive the treads and risers to a minimum depth of 12 mm or 0.4 the string thickness, whichever is the greater. These housings should be tapered to receive wedges to support the tread and riser. The wedges should be fitted with adhesive to form a rigid joint. Stringers are housed to accommodate treads and risers or metal brackets are fixed to support treads.
To newel posts and landings
When strings are fitted into newels, the ends of the strings should have tenons formed to fit into the newels. The tenons should be not less than 12 mm thick and not less than 45 mm long. However, where two strings are joined to a newel one or both tenons may be hunched to allow both tenons to be accommodated.
The mortise joint in a newels should be housed not less than 12 mm deep receive the ends of the treads and risers and should be mortised for strings and handrails as required. Intermediate newels should always be manufactured in one part unless test evidence exists to prove that the two part newel can withstand relevant loadings.
Fig:2.10. Tenons at ends of stringer.
Fig:2.11. Fixing strings to landing newels.
Self-Check 2.1.
Part I: Multiple choices
Instruction: I. Select the correct answer for the give choice. You are provided a minute for each question and each carry 3 Points.
One of the following is way of wooden floor leveling
A/Clean everything off the floor B/ Put on a dust mask.
B/Examine the floor closely for nails or screws that is loose. D/ All are correct
Which of the following not true about Step Proportions of riser and tread of staircase?
A / R i s e r + T r e a d e" 4 0 a n d d" 4 5 c m B / 2 R i s e r + T r e a d e" 5 8 a n d d" 6 3 c m
C / R i s e r x T r e a d e" 4 0 0 a n d d" 5 0 0 c m 2 D / N o n e o f t h e a b o v e
W h a t i s t h e m a x i m u m p i t c h f o r p r i v a t e s t a i r ?
A / 4 5 0 B / 6 3 0
C / 4 2 0 D/ None of the above
Part II: True or False Questions
Instruction: Say True or False. You are provided 2 minute for each question and each has 5Points.
The relation between the length of the tread (l) and the height of the riser (h) defines the slope of the flight of stairs.
For school building the preferred going is 280mm and the is rise 150mm
Newel posts are necessary every time that the handrail changes direction.
When strings are fitted into newels, the ends of the strings should have tenons formed to fit into the newels.
You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers.
Name: _________________________ Date: _______________
Operation Sheet 2.1
Operation Title: Fix riser & tread onto stringer
Operation purpose: To improve Trainees skill in fix riser & tread onto stringer
Conditions or situations for the operations:
Safe working area
Properly operated tools and equipment
Availability of appropriate material
Equipment and Tools
Measuring and Laying out Tools
Percussion Tools
Impelling Tools
Boring Tools
Materials
Timber
Nails
Bolts and nuts
Precautions
Wear working cloths which properly fit with your body
Wear Mask
Make working area hazard free.
Instruction: Fix riser and tread onto stringer for a floor with two story based on the acceptable standard as per the following dimension of the building 3m wall height, 4m staircase width and 1m width of landing slab.
Procedure
Wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask
Clear the working area
Read Working drawing & specification
Prepare the stringers
Measure and cut the risers
Attach the risers
Measure and cut the treads
Attach the treads
Repeat for the remaining risers and treads
Finishing touches
Quality Criteria:
Fixing riser & tread onto stringer should do without any scratch.
Perfection is a mandatory to avoid wastage
Operation Sheet 2.2
Operation Title: Install Newel Posts
Operation purpose: To Install Newel Posts for a certain staircase.
Conditions or situations for the operations:
Safe working area
Properly operated tools and equipment
Availability of appropriate material
Equipment and Tools
Measuring and Laying out Tools
Percussion Tools
Impelling Tools
Boring Tools
Materials
Newel Posts
Nails
Bolts and nuts
Glue
Precautions
Wear working cloths which properly fit with your body
Wear Mask
Make working area hazard free.
Instruction: Install Newel Posts for a floor with two stories based on the acceptable standard as per the following dimension of the building 3m wall height, 4m staircase width and 1m width of landing slab.
Procedure
Wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask
Clear the working area
Read Working drawing & specification
Construct a baluster line.
Determine the length between the starting newel Post and the landing newel Posts.
Install the starting newel Post, landing newel Post, and/or half-newel Posts
Quality Criteria:
The newel Posts should be cut &erect without any scratch.
Perfection is a mandatory to avoid wastage
LAP Test -2
Practical Demonstration
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________
Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the following task within 3hrs
Task-1: Fix riser & Tread onto stringer
Task-2: Install Newel Posts
Unit Three: Fitting handrails, balustrade and finish.
This unit is developed to provide trainees the necessary information regarding the following content coverage and topics:
Marking, cutting and fixing handrails and balusters material
Installing non-slip strips treads
Cleaning up and Waste management
This unit will also assist trainees to attain the learning outcomes stated below. Specifically, upon
Completion of this learning guide, the trainees will be able to:
Mark and cut material handrails and balusters
Fit and fix handrails and balusters
Install non-slip strips treads
Clean up and manage Waste
3.1. Marking and cutting material handrails and balusters
Cutting the Balusters
1. Measure the length of every baluster in place.
2. Hold the baluster in place with the dowel pushed firmly into the hole in the tread.
3. Use a level to plumb the baluster perfectly. Please note the following figure.
4. Scribe a line even with the pitch of the rail.
5. Add the depth of the plow in the bottom of the rail to this length.
6. Using a miter-saw, cut the baluster at the proper angle.
Fig:3.1. Cutting the square top baluster
Boring the Handrail
Using a level or a plumb bob, make a mark on the bottom of the rail directly above and corresponding with the baluster center on the tread.
Drill a hole of the appropriate diameter in the bottom of the rail. The hole size is determined by the diameter of the baluster top you have chosen.
Note: This hole must be drilled accurately.
There are several ways to bore the hole. One method is to use a jig made with a pitch block
Drill a hole perpendicular to the run. The hole must be accurate and is best done on drill press with the run side flat on the table. The drill bit should be the exact diameter of the baluster tops.
This hole will guide your drill. Please note Figure below.
Fig:3.2. Using a jig to drill holes on a slope
. Next, clamp the jig to the bottom of the rail with the run side parallel with the treads and the jig hole centered with the baluster mark on the bottom of the rail.
Drill the holes in the bottom of the rail about 1-1/2-inch deep. Place a piece of tape on the drill bit to make the holes uniform in depth and to prevent drilling too deep.
3.2. Fitting and fixing handrails and balusters
The handrail should be suitably fixed into the newel or intermediate newel using an appropriate and tested mechanical fixing or mortise and tenon joint. The jointing of the baluster into the underside of the handrail and the base plate should be of a design suitable to withstand the handrail loading requirements
Installing the Balusters
Cutting and installing wooden balusters (also called spindles) requires careful measurement, planning, and the use of appropriate tools. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to cut and fix wooden balusters:
Measure and plan: Start by measuring the height of the existing or desired baluster. Ensure you have the appropriate height and number of balusters for safety and compliance with local building codes. Also, consider the spacing between balusters and ensure it meets the requirements.
Remove old balusters (if applicable): If you're replacing existing balusters, carefully remove them by cutting through any nails or screws that secure them.
Cut the balusters: Measure and mark the desired height on each baluster. Use a miter saw or a handsaw to make precise cuts at the marked locations. Ensure that all the balusters are cut to the same height.
Test-fit the balusters: Before permanently fixing the balusters, do a test fitting to ensure they fit properly. Insert each baluster into the designated slots or holes on both the top and bottom railings. Make any necessary adjustments or recuts if the balusters are too long or too short.
Fix the balusters: Once you're satisfied with the fit, apply wood glue to the bottom end of each baluster. Insert the glued end into the corresponding hole or slot on the bottom railing, making sure it's securely seated. Apply pressure to ensure a tight bond between the baluster and the railing.
Secure the balusters: To further reinforce the baluster's attachment, use finishing nails or screws to secure them. Drill pilot holes into the top and bottom railings, ensuring they match the angle and size of the nails or screws you're using. Then, drive the nails or insert the screws through the pilot holes and into the balusters.
Repeat the process: Continue cutting, fitting, gluing, and securing the remaining balusters, following the same steps.
Finishing touches: Once all the balusters are fixed, clean up any excess glue and make sure they are firmly in place. Sand any rough edges or surfaces for a smooth finish. Apply paint, stain, or varnish to the balusters as desired, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Fig. 3.3. Installing the Balusters
Installing Round Top Balusters
For Installing Round Top Balusters the first main activities are Boring the Treads and Boring the Rail as we mentioned above in (3.1.2.). Then follow the following procedure:
Cutting and Installing Round Top Balusters
Measure the length of every baluster in place.
. Hold the baluster in place with the dowel pushed firmly into the hole in the tread.
Line the center of the top of the baluster with the center of the hole in the bottom of the rail.
On the baluster, scribe a line equal to the pitch of the rail. Please note the following figure below
Fig:3.4. Alternative method for installing round top balusters
Add 1/2-inch to the longest point of this line and make a square cut on this mark with a miter saw.
Gently remove the rail.
Glue and nail the bottoms of each baluster into the tread. This will keep the balusters from spinning.
Push the rail down on top of the baluster, tapping it firmly with a rubber mallet.
Secure the rail to the newels.
Attach the baluster to the rail with a small nail.
Installing Rake Rail Sections (Upper and Lower)
Select a piece of rail long enough to reach between the newels. On one end of the rail, make a cut at an angle equal to the pitch of the stair. Note: Use a pitch block to determine this angle.
Lay the rail on the treads and let the angled end slide tightly against the lower newel. If it does not fit tightly, adjust the angle cut until it does. Please note Figure below .
Fig. 3.5.Laying the rail on the treads
Scribe a line where the rail intersects with the top newel. Cut the rail along the line.
Measure down the reveal plus the thickness of the rail (on the plumb) from the top of the bottom newel.
Clamp a block below the mark. Note Fig. 3.5.on previous page.
Set the rail into place and bolt as needed.
Attach appropriate trim.
Installing Post-to-Post Rail with Fittings
The post-to-post balustrade system with fittings is more complicated than the standard post-to post system. The complexity yields a wider variety of applications than the standard post-to-post.
To install post-to post systems with fittings, cut and install newels as described in the standard post-to-post section (without fittings). The post-to-post with fittings system uses newels that have the same size top square. (Generally 5 - 7inches.)
Make a square cut on the end of the handrail.
Attach an up easing to the end of the rail with a rail bolt.
Lay the rail on top of treads on the first run. Please note Fig below.
Fig.3.6. Adding fitting to upper newel post.
Slide rail upwards until the fitting touches the face of the landing newel.
At the point where the fitting touches the face of the landing newel, scribe a line on the fitting perpendicular to the newel using a square.
Cut the up easing off on this line.
Lay rail back on to the treads and slide the rail up until the fitting is the desired distance away from the face of the newel.
At the face of the bottom newel, scribe a line with the pitch of the rail. Please note Fig. below
Fig:3.7. Marking rail at lower newel post
Cut off the bottom end of rail at this line.
Place rail back onto the treads with the bottom end fitted tightly against the face of the bottom newel.
Measure the distance from the back of the fitting to the face of the newel and add to this distance the thickness of the rail. This is your return length. Please note Fig. below.
Fig.3.8. Determining return length.
Measure the distance from the top of the rail to the top of the bottom newel. Please note Fig. below
Fig.3.9. Determining the length of the drop
Measure the distance from the top of the fitting to the top of the upper newel.
Subtract the distance from the distance in Step 13. This is the length of your drop or neck.
Mark the gooseneck and make the cut.
Attach gooseneck to the fitting.
Raise rail up to the proper rail height and bolt each end to the newels. Please note Fig. below
Fig.3.10. Bolting rail to newel posts.
Generally to fix a handrail to balusters, you'll typically need a few tools and materials, such as a drill, screws, a level, a tape measure, a pencil, and a screwdriver. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you with the process:
Measure and plan: Start by measuring the length of the handrail you'll need and determine the appropriate height for the rail. Typically, the handrail should be about 34 to 38 inches above the stairs or walking surface. Use a pencil to mark the desired height on each baluster.
Pre-drill holes: Use a drill with an appropriate-sized drill bit to pre-drill pilot holes in each baluster at the marked height. Ensure that the drill bit is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws you'll be using to attach the handrail.
Attach the handrail brackets: Handrail brackets are metal or wooden supports that hold the handrail in place. Position the brackets along the length of the handrail, evenly spacing them out. Use a level to make sure the brackets are straight, and mark their positions with a pencil.
Install the brackets: Use a drill to create pilot holes at the marked positions for the brackets. Then, attach the brackets to the handrail using screws. Make sure the brackets are securely fastened.
Position the handrail: With the help of a friend or family member, hold the handrail in place, aligning it with the pre-drilled holes in the balusters and the brackets. Ensure that the handrail is level and centered along the balusters.
Attach the handrail to the balusters: Insert screws through the pre-drilled holes in the balusters and into the handrail. Start at one end and work your way to the other, tightening the screws securely. Make sure the handrail is firmly attached to each baluster.
Test the stability: After attaching the handrail, give it a firm shake to ensure it is stable and secure. Make any necessary adjustments or tighten screws if needed.
Finishing touches: If desired, you can fill the screw holes with wood putty or a similar filler to create a more polished appearance. Sand down any rough edges or splinters on the handrail and balusters.
3.3. Installing non-slip strips treads
Slipping, tripping and falling are risks that can be associated with steps and stairs, and can lead to serious injuries.
Australian stair nosing standards state the following requirements are mandatory for anti-slip stair nosing and are drawn from the (National Construction Code)NCC Volume 1, (BCA) To fully comply with current Australian Standards all public access stairs should;
Be fitted with stair nosing that have a fully non-slip horizontal surface,
Have 90degree stair nosing measuring a minimum of 50mm wide by 10mm minimum deep,
Have stair nosing with a luminance contrast of at least 30 percent against the surface.
New construction, unless exempt, has to meet code requirements and stair nosing simply becomes necessary.
You need to select a stair nosing that is durable, slip resistant, retains attractive appearance even in high traffic stairways, but the most important feature is it must meet the relevant construction code and standards.
Fig. 3.11. Installing non-slip strips treads
How to Install Non-Slip Decking Strips
Wooden decking areas are notorious for becoming slippery when wet, or when covered with algae. Non-Slip Decking Strips are a quick and easy way to improve safety on wood deck flooring they create an instant non-slip surface, right over the top of your existing decking.
Description
Non-Slip Decking Strips are a high performance safety stair tread made from high quality FRP (Fibre Reinforced Plastic)/ GRP (Glass- bre Reinforced Plastic)
Characteristics
Slip Resistant Surface
Impact Resistant
Class 1 Flame Spread Non Sparking
Corrosion Resistant
Lightweight
Non Metallic
Tough & Durable
Choice of Nosing Color
Choice of Sizes
Quick Installation
Manufactured to ISO 90
Step 1 - Preparation & Safety
The wooden decking surface should be swept, and then cleaned with a suitable decking wash to remove mildew and algae. Such cleaners are readily available on the market or alternatively please use our very own Decking Wash. This will make for easier installation, lengthen the lifespan of your decking and the Non-Slip Decking Strips, and ensure the surface is as anti-slip as possible.
All rotten decking should be removed and replaced prior to the installation of Non-Slip Decking Strips. The Decking Strips are only designed to be installed onto pre-existing surfaces. Decking that is questionable or rotten may give way, and would, therefore, be unsafe for foot traffic.
Step 2 - Fixing & Tools
You will need a drill with a screwdriver head and enough screws to secure the strips to the decking boards. The number of screws needed per strip can be found in our FAQ
We recommend that the Dino Grip Decking Strips be fixed into place using Galvanized or Stainless Steel at star headed screw. We do not recommend installing the Decking Strips using standard screws as these will rust, stain the decking and not sit at into the Decking Strips, thereby creating an additional trip hazard. All of our Decking Strips come with free galvanized screws but we would recommended stainless steel screw installations near pools of water.
Fig.3.12. Installing Non-Slip Decking Strips
Step 3 - Cutting Non-Slip Decking Strips
We are able to cut down any size strip to the size you need before shipping just let us know when placing your order. This service is absolutely FREE.
If you need to cut the Decking Strips to size yourself during your installation, we recommend that a suitable dust mask with protective safety goggles and gloves are worn.
The Decking Strips should be cut outside or in well-ventilated areas using a hack-saw, a jigsaw (with a tile blade) or by using a hand grinder.
Dust residue can be disposed of using normal waste disposal methods. No special permissionsor licenses are required.
Step 4 Installing Non-Slip Decking Strips
Our Decking Strips are all pre-drilled, so you can install them instantly! Simply lay down all your Decking Strips, ensuring they are in the correct place and the correct size, and drill into place using an electric drill with the correct screwdriver head, and screws.
Fig.3.13.The effect of slip Strips
3.3. Cleaning up and Waste management
Cleaning up
The decking surface should be regularly cleaned. This allows all surface debris to be removed and reduces the build-up of mildew and algae, which are slippery and can cause a hazard.
The best way to keep your decking area clean is by using a mold and mildew cleaner, which can be applied using a sti ff broom and removed with clean water.
The security of the fixings should be checked on a regular basis. Circumstances will vary, based upon the volume of foot traffic, etc. but, as a guide, monthly inspections are advised in high trafficked areas
Avoid damaging the stairs during interior finishing work!
The stairs may only be cleaned with a soft cloth; otherwise, the finishing surfaces may be damaged.
Water and a soft cloth can be used to clean painted, varnished, and oiled surfaces.
If necessary, a few drops of detergent can be added to 5L of washing water (Eg: dishwashing detergent).
Do not use corrosive substances, solvents, windscreen washer fluids, or abrasive cleaners for cleaning.
The more abrasive surfaces of the oiled staircase must be maintained as required. Before applying the oil layer, surfaces must be sanded and cleaned
Waste management
Maintenance Overview
Stair Treads & Risers are low maintenance products that do not require a floor finish, commonly called a wax.Though this coating greatly improves the durability of the product, daily and routine maintenance must be performed to maintain the appearance of the product. Low maintenance in this case is meant to be understood as No Finish Required which leads to removal and reapplication of the finish. Always use untreated, new or thoroughly cleaned mops and pads when conducting daily or routine maintenance. As with any maintenance program, be sure to use proper PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) per the cleaning product SDS and ensure all maintenance procedures are conducted per the cleaning products instructions. The use of Caution Tape and/or Wet Floor Signs is recommended to prevent slips and falls
Daily Maintenance
Ensure that initial maintenance has been conducted prior to conducting daily maintenance. Use dust mop and vacuum treads to remove any dirt, dust or debris.Mix 2-4 ounces of Excelsior NC-900 per gallon of clean, potable water. Use a clean mop to clean spills, dirt buildup and other debris. Rinse with clean, cool water and allow to dry completely. Ensure treads are clean and that all cleaning residue has been removed (this may require additional rinsing) before allowing foot traffic.
Routine or Periodic Maintenance
Use dust mop and vacuum treads to remove any dirt, dust or debris. Mix 4-6 ounces of Excelsior CM-910 per gallon of clean, potable water. Use a clean mop or pump-up sprayer to apply cleaning solution to the treads and let stand for 5-10 minutes. If treads are heavily soiled, re-apply the solution and allow cleaner to remain on surface for an additional 5-10 minutes before scrubbing and removing
Self-Check 3.1.
Part I: Multiple choices
Instruction: I. Select the correct answer for the give choice. You are provided a minute for each question and each carry 3 Points.
Handrail should be suitably fixed into one of the following stair parts?
A/ Starting newel Post B/Intermediate newel Post
C/ Landing newel Posts D/ All are correct
What did you consider when Installing non-slip strips on stair nosing
A/Durable B/Slip resistant
C/ Retains attractive appearance D/ All are correct
One of the following is true about installing the Balusters
A/ Place a small amount of glue into the hole
B/ Fasten the baluster to the rail with two small nails.
C/ Use fillet to fill the plow between the balusters.
D/ All are correct
Part II: True or False Questions
Instruction: Say True or False. You are provided 2 minute for each question and each has 5Points.
Slipping, tripping and falling are risks that can be associated with steps and stairs, and can lead to serious injuries
Do not use corrosive substances, solvents, windscreen washer fluids, or abrasive cleaners for cleaning.
One of the several ways to bore Handrail using a jig made with a pitch block
You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers.
Name: _________________________ Date: _______________
Operation Sheet 3.1
Operation Title: Cutting and Fixing the Balusters
Operation purpose: To Cut and Fix the Balusters as per the given dimension for two flights of internal stairs
Conditions or situations for the operations:
Safe working area
Properly operated tools and equipment
Availability of appropriate material
Equipment and Tools
Measuring and Laying out Tools
Percussion Tools
Impelling Tools
Boring Tools
Materials
Balusters
Nails
Bolts and nuts
Glue
Precautions
Wear working cloths which properly fit with your body
Wear Mask
Make working area hazard free.
Instruction: Cut and fix the Balusters for a floor with two story based on the acceptable standard as per the following dimension of the building 3m wall height, 4m staircase width and 1m width of landing slab.
Procedure
Wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask
Clear the working area
Read Working drawing & specification
Measure and plan
Cut the balusters
Test-fit the balusters
Fix the balusters
Secure the balusters
Repeat the process
Finishing touches
Quality Criteria:
The Balusters should be cut &erect without any scratch & defect.
Perfection is a mandatory to avoid wastage
Operation Sheet 3.2
Operation Title: Fixing hand rail to Balusters
Operation purpose: To fix hand rail to Balusters as per the given dimension for two flights of internal stairs
Conditions or situations for the operations:
Safe working area
Properly operated tools and equipment
Availability of appropriate material
Equipment and Tools
Measuring and Laying out Tools
Percussion Tools
Impelling Tools
Boring Tools
Materials
Hand Rail
Nails
Bolts and nuts
Brackets
Glue
Precautions
Wear working cloths which properly fit with your body
Wear Mask
Make working area hazard free.
Instruction: Fix hand rail with Balusters for a floor with two stories based on the acceptable standard as per the following dimension of the building 3m wall height, 4m staircase width and 1m width of landing slab.
Procedure
Wear safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask
Read Working drawing & specification
Calculate the amount of Balusters required.
Measure and plan
Pre-drill holes
Attach the handrail brackets
Install the brackets
Position the handrail
Attach the handrail to the balusters
Test the stability
Finishing touches
Quality Criteria:
Fixing hand rail to Balusters should be performing without any scratch & defect.
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LAP Test -3.
Practical Demonstration
Name: _____________________________ Date: ________________
Time started: ________________________ Time finished: ________________
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the following tasks within 120 minutes
Task-1: Cut and Fix Balusters
Task-2: Fix hand rail with Balusters
Reference
How to Remodel Your Stair A Step-By-Step
SUREWOOD~Lnl www.surewood-lnl.com
ADVANCE ANTI-SLIP SURFACES Pty. Ltd.
6A Aristoc Road, Glen Waverley 3150, Victoria, Australia www.advanceantislip.com
Participants of this TTLM (training material) preparation
No Name Qualification (Level)Field of Study Organization/ InstitutionMobile numberE-mail1Tesfaye AssegidewMscConstruction MgtButajira PTC+251913442444tesfayeassegidew@gmail.com2Muluken SolomonMscConstruction MgtBatu PTC+251912289146mulecot99@gimal.com34567
Page PAGE 66 of NUMPAGES 81
Author/Copyright :
Ministry of Labor and Skills
Assemble and Install Prefabricated Stairs and Furnishing ProductsVersion - IOctober 2023
Rise + Tread = Step
Small intrusions such as skirting board are not included in measuring effective width
The effective clear width between a wall and balustrade should be measured at 450 mm above the stair tread surface to the inner face of the baluster
Note:
The maximum pitch for private stair is 420
For dwelling for external tapered steps and stairs that are part of the building the going of each steps should be a minimum of 280mm
For school building the preferred going is 280mm and the rise is 150mm.
The normal relation between the dimension of the rise and going is twice the rise and plus the going (2R + G) equal between 550mm and 70mm.
Note
1 A Modern Style staircase installation does not require newel posts.
2 For hallway installations, an extra newel post is recommended to be installed for long sections.
Please use star head screws specifically so they dont round offresulting in a better finish
We recommend applying an adhesive as a cushion in order to avoid drumming sounds
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